edible neighborhood

Plymouth Old World Charm Meets Modern-Day Flavor

By / Photography By | November 10, 2021
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COMPARI’S ON THE PARK

With its charming downtown and tree-lined town square alongside trendy bars and restaurants, Plymouth, Mich., boasts a mix of Old World charm and modern flavor.

First settled in 1825—some of the early settlers came from the other Plymouth, in New England, with the rock and the Mayflower, hence the name—Plymouth became a city in 1932. Today, Plymouth is a walkable, vibrant and bustling city with a strong sense of community. What sets it apart in suburbia is its many independently owned shops and restaurants: You won’t find chain after chain here (unless it’s a chainsaw at the city’s annual beloved ice festival).

Teresa Pilarz, founder of local coffee shop Espresso Elevado, grew up here and has seen the city change over the years.

“I’ve seen it progress from a place where we would come to cruise Main Street and eat ice cream at Cloverdales to the lively outdoor dining scene we have now,” she says. “Since we began in business over 10 years ago, I’ve been pleased to see the dining, shopping and living options continue to expand.”

COMPARI’S ON THE PARK

Owned and operated by the Yaquinto family, this restaurant quickly became a neighborhood staple due to its top-notch Italian-American fare with scratch-made food based on family recipes passed down through generations. What they don’t make in-house they source locally when possible, such as bread from similarly family-owned-and-operated bakery Mamma Rita’s in Redford.

A table on a Main Street patio is among the most coveted seats in town for brunch, happy hour or dinner (pretty much any meal), and Compari’s has some of the best seats for prime people-watching and taking in the scene at Kellogg Park, which hosts festivals and outdoor concerts year-round.

In the restaurant business for more than four decades, the Yaquintos also own nearby Fiamma Grille, featuring seasonally inspired American fare, and seafood bistro The Sardine Room (see next page).

The Spot: Compari’s on the Park, 350 S. Main St., Plymouth; 734-416-0100; comparisdining.com

Don’t Miss: The Signature Square Pizza (the Yaquinto family also owned and operated Paisano’s Pizza in Dearborn so they know pizza) and the classics like lasagna and spaghetti with meatballs and marinara.

THE SARDINE ROOM

If sister restaurant Compari’s on the Park is like Sunday dinner at Grandma’s, then The Sardine Room is the Friday night party with your best friends. Opened in 2012 and inspired by the concept of a raw bar, The Sardine Room offers more than fresh seafood, with a well-edited menu of shared plates and heartier entrees alongside craft cocktails, beer and wine. The ambience and vibes lend themselves to ladies’ night out, watching the game, special occasions and everything in between.

The Spot: The Sardine Room, 340 S. Main St., Plymouth; 734-416-0261; thesardineroom.com

Don’t Miss: “Sardine” is in the name, so seafood is not to be missed. Try oysters from the raw bar, pan-seared scallops or the Portuguese sardines with brown caper butter and goat cheese crostini.

BARRIO COCINA Y TEQUILERIA

Meaning neighborhood in Spanish, Barrio specializes in fresh Mexican street food spanning different regions. While it takes food seriously, it takes libations even more seriously with a drink menu longer than the bill of fare. Craft cocktails are prepared with fresh juices and locally sourced fruits and vegetables. Be prepared to wait, especially on a Friday or Saturday night.

The Spot: Barrio Cocina Y Tequileria, 555 Forest Ave., Plymouth; 734-738-6754; barrioplymouth.com

Don’t Miss: Margaritas (obviously) especially the Frozen Mango Margarita, if it’s available. The Burrito Barrio—teeming with your choice of meat such as chicken tinga, chorizo or steak—is large enough to satisfy even the biggest appetite.

PLYMOUTH COFFEE BEAN

Located in a 19th century converted home, Plymouth Coffee Bean Company opened in 1993. The Hynes family bought the business in 2017.

“It was just a cool, unique place and it’s, like, an institution in Plymouth,” says co-owner Orla Hynes, whose husband and sister-in-law frequented the coffee shop long before they owned it.

“We really realized that when we bought it, how much it means to different people, whether it’s getting their coffee, whether it’s going to work, whether it’s high school students … It’s been there for so long and several different generations have come in, they’re, like, ‘Oh, I grew up here. My grandpa, my dad came in here.’”

Plymouth Coffee Bean offers both traditional and more contemporary espresso drinks like lattes and mochas and brewed coffees and seasonal coffee blends, featuring beans roasted locally by Coffee Express Roasting Company, with mostly everything made in-house or sourced from other small businesses like Maria’s Italian Bakery in Novi.

Plymouth Coffee Bean is also a social and community hub, hosting events like open mics, which the Hynes family kept going from the previous owners, as well as featuring the work of local artists on the walls.

The Spot: Plymouth Coffee Bean, 844 Penniman Ave., Plymouth; 734-454-0178; plymouthcoffeebean.com

Don’t Miss: The seasonal offerings such as coffee blends like the toasted coconut or the “chai-der” (a mix of chai tea and cider) and house-made crepes.

ESPRESSO ELEVADO

Teresa Pilarz discovered her love of coffee when she found herself unemployed after graduating from college and started working as a barista. Years later she came up with a viable business plan to open her own place, she says.

“The turning point for me was realizing I didn’t want to regret not having the courage to give my ideas a chance. Once I made up my mind, everything started to fall into place,” says the founder of Espresso Elevado, which is celebrating its 10th year in business.

As a small-batch roaster, Espresso Elevado specializes in fair trade and organically grown beans fresh-roasted on-site and brewed to order. The cafe’s sauces and syrups are made in-house with all-natural or organic ingredients.

Pilarz says Plymouth was her first choice for opening her business because of the vibrant downtown.

“I wanted to be in a place with a strong sense of community that would appreciate a hand-crafted quality focus,” she says. “This is our niche and we couldn’t ask for better or more loyal customers over the years. We have met so many neighbors and friends—and their pups! Our staff really enjoys coming out to meet all the dogs and give them treats.”

The Spot: Espresso Elevado, 606 S. Main St., Plymouth; 734-904-8323; espressoelevado.com

Don’t Miss: The original Marzipan Cappuccino, which is just like the Old World almondy marzipan treat, Pilarz says. “People love our hand-poured brews, but our special house drinks and seasonal lattes are where we really shine. Our most popular latte is our Lavender Vanilla Bean, and definitely our Calabaza Latte, made with pure pumpkin for the fall season, is a must-try.”

THE EBENEZER

In true speakeasy fashion, The Ebenezer cocktail lounge is tucked away off Fleet Street in the basement of the former First National Bank of Plymouth. Named after Ebenezer J. Penniman, the bank’s first president, appointed in 1871, the speakeasy’s former life is most apparent in the vault, which serves as the bar’s private tasting room with lockers for members. While it may give off swanky 1920s Roaring Twenties ambience and classy vibes, no need to come dressed as Jay Gatsby or Daisy Buchanan (unless, of course, you want to).

The Spot: The Ebenezer, 305 Fleet St., Plymouth; 734-404-5552; theebenezerplymouth.com

Don’t Miss: The Ebenezer puts a twist on the classics like Jack the Ripper (Earl Grey–infused gin, ginger liqueur and honey lemon) and offers more contemporary cocktails like the Rosé Martini with strawberry-infused vodka, Lillet, lime juice, lemon cordial, topped with rosé wine. Feeling hungry? Charcuterie is always a reliable option but the lamb shank is a more unique and heartier offering at a speakeasy.

NICO AND VALI

Named after the youngest generation of the DePalma family, who owns this Italian eatery, Nico and Vali’s eclectic menu features homey recipes from central and southern Italy with a modern and fresh spin on classic and traditional dishes. The chefs try to incorporate seasonal and local ingredients whenever possible, such as Michigan sausage links over butter sage polenta and locally sourced pastas. Many dishes are also made in-house, such as the gnocchi with potato, ricotta and parmigiano dumplings.

Nico and Vali also hosts live music some Saturdays, making it a solid destination for a night on the town.

The Spot: Nico and Vali, 744 Wing St., Plymouth; 734-207-7880; nicoandvali.com

Don’t Miss: On the small plates side, check out the Lemon Shrimp (sautéed shrimp with spinach, heirloom tomato, garlic, butter and white wine) and the Artichokes and Chilies (fried Roman artichokes, fresnos and jalapeños tossed with fresh basil in a white wine sauce). The pastas are homestyle and scratch-made: Try the Asiago Baci (asiago-stuffed pasta with roasted tomatoes and asparagus, tossed in garlic cream sauce).

KARL’S CABIN

Like the city of Plymouth itself, the structure that houses Karl’s Cabin has a rich history. From its early days as Rusceak’s Rustic Tavern (which became a popular stop for traveling musicians, including a young Johnny Cash) to a rowdy and somewhat notorious roadhouse called Hefner’s Hideaway to an upscale restaurant called The Stockyard, the building has lived many lives.

It became Karl’s Family Restaurant in 1982 when Karl Poulos found the abandoned log cabin while searching for a location to open a new restaurant. It has since become a community gathering place and institution, standing the test of time and building a loyal following across generations. The stage that Johnny Cash graced still exists today on the north end of the building, believed to be one of the oldest log cabin restaurant structures in southeast Michigan.

The Spot: Karl’s Cabin, 6005 Gotfredson Rd., Plymouth; 734-455-8450; karlscabin.com

Don’t Miss: The expansive menu of comfort food classics spans many cuisines, such as the Jaegerschnitzel (pan-seared breaded pork loin, hunter mushroom gravy, braised red cabbage and buttered spaetzle) and even classic regional dishes like the beloved Maurice salad.

Z’S BUBBLE TEA

Zeinab and Fadi Ashkar love to treat themselves and their kids to bubble tea on their journeys.

“We became boba fanatics and decided to open a boba shop in our hometown, Dearborn Heights,” says Zeinab Ashkar, the Z in the name.

The couple opened that location in 2019, before choosing downtown Plymouth for their second location.

“We lived in Canton for five years and our favorite outings were in downtown Plymouth,” Ashkar says.

Z’s Bubble Tea specializes in boba teas—tea-based milk and fruit drinks with tapioca pearls, which originated in Taiwan in the 1980s. In addition to a variety that includes Westernized flavors like Iced Pumpkin Pie and Red Bull boba teas, Ashkar says Z’s also offers soft-serve ice cream topped with boba. Z’s will soon offer coffee drinks too.

Comic book fans can grab a boba tea while picking up the latest issue as Z’s is located inside the State of Comics store.

The Spot: Z’s Bubble Tea, 575 Forest Ave., Plymouth; 734-359-3375; facebook.com/zsbubnbing

Don’t Miss: Ashkar says the traditional fruit and milk teas are very popular, but the more creative boba teas, such as the Oreo, Mocktail and Brown Sugar Sundae, are not to be missed!

WESTBORN MARKET

Come for the groceries, but leave appreciating the marvel of this award-winning model of building reuse: This Westborn location is tucked masterfully inside a former post office, built in 1935.

Westborn’s investment in the building did not go unnoticed. Their work preserving the exterior, plus maintaining the building’s terrazzo floors and a four-panel WPA mural by Carlos Lopes entitled “Plymouth Trail,” earned local and state recognition and awards, including being named one of the state’s top three preservation projects by the Michigan Historic Preservation Network in 2018.

The Spot: Westborn Market, 860 Penniman Ave.; westbornmarket.com

Don’t Miss: It’s Westborn, so take your pick from groceries to specialty prepared foods to floral arrangements. Whatever it is, the building will help you savor the experience all the more.

PLYMOUTH KITCHEN LAUNCHES LOCAL BRANDS

Even though you can’t drop in—nothing personal, it’s purely a production space—a story about Plymouth food would be remiss without mentioning the products that come out of Proud Mitten Shared Kitchen.

“Most of my people are CPG, consumer packaged goods,” says owner Marlo Bendon, who rents kitchen space—not to mention cooler, freezer and dry storage space—to a dozen small business food entrepreneurs.

Bendon was one of the earliest businesses to become part of Plymouth Arts and Recreation Center (PARC), the city’s well-preserved and repurposed former high school and, later, middle school. Today PARC houses almost 50 organizations and businesses, including Friends of Rouge River and the Michigan Philharmonic, in former school rooms and other areas, complete with old chemistry tables and lockers.

“I just love walking in because of all that’s going on,” says Bendon, there since 2017. “I came from a bigger kitchen, about five times the size. I knew I had outgrown the space when I signed the papers, but I wanted the community love.”

Bendon’s food business experience began around age 4, when she’d help her father at the local farmers market.

“I noticed this twinkle in his eye,” she says. But his passion for the business couldn’t prevent roadblocks. “He struggled with finding a brick-and-mortar location.”

Recalling that need for a launching pad inspired Bendon to start Proud Mitten, where she also assists clients in navigating the food product start-up terrain.

“I do more than lease space. My feet are on the pavement, getting them leads, fostering them from the beginning. The client can focus on their brand without all the other stresses that go with brick-and-mortar,” says Bendon, adding that part of her success is knowing which clients to take on, a necessity in an industry with a 90% failure rate. These aren’t just “people that took up baking during the pandemic.”

Humaira Arain’s Peach & Honey cake bars were one of the first products to come out of Proud Mitten. When Arain needed to expand production, Bendon purchased a 30-quart mixer to accommodate larger batches. When another client was in search of organic habaneros, she connected them with the Majer Family Farm in Whitmore Lake.

“I’ve grown considerably since I started,” says Arain, who attended culinary school, began baking her all natural and clean label cake bars as a healthy alternative for family and friends.

Arain has more than doubled her flavors from three to seven, with Hazelnut Toffee Crunch as her newest release. Lemon Cherry, made with Traverse City cherries, is the top seller. She tries to use local products whenever possible.

“It’s exciting coming across sources and farmers we can work with,” Arain says. “Marlo is super encouraging…. About a year ago I started working with a distributor, that’s when things really took off.”

“She says it is magical that she can continue to scale,” Bendon says.

“It is magical,” says Arain.

For more information, visit proudmittenkitchen.com.

PRODUCTS THAT COME OUT OF PROUD MITTEN

Poppa’s Gourmet Hot Sauce and Momma’s Hot Pepper Jelly: Sweet and spicy sauce or the sweet and mild jelly—you choose. twistofsweetheat.com

Peach & Honey Cake Bars: Handmade cake bars without artificial ingredients or flavors, hydrogenated fats or high fructose corn syrup. peachandhoneybakes.com

Old World Truffles: Handcrafted black truffle honey, made from fresh Italian truffles and local Michigan honey. oldworldtruffles.com

Cookie Lab: Scratch-made gourmet cookies—custom-decorated upon request—and classes. cookielabllc.com

Blck Cocoa Bakes: Vegan desserts and pastries with taste and sustainability in mind. msha.ke/blckcocoabakes

Good Fat Company: Vegan and gluten-free good fat bars made from organic cacao butter. goodfat.bar

Detroit Jerky: Plant-based jerky in original and classic flavors. detroitjerkyllc.com

Card + Cookie: Doughy cookie bars and fun personal cards. cardandcookie.com

Photo 1: THE SARDINE ROOM
Photo 2: BARRIO COCINA Y TEQUILERIA
Photo 3: ESPRESSO ELEVADO
Photo 4: THE EBENEZER
Photo 1: PLYMOUTH COFFEE BEAN; Photo: Courtesy of Plymouth Coffee Bean
Photo 2: NICO AND VALI; Photo: Courtesy of Nico and Vali
Photo 3: WESTBORN MARKET; Photo: Courtesy of Westborn Market
Photo 1: KARL’S CABIN; Photo: Courtesy of Karl’s Cabin
Photo 2: Z’S BUBBLE TEA