Fenton A Not-So-Hidden Gem
A bakery well worth the drive. Old-fashioned frozen custard served in a park on the Shiawassee River. A speakeasy hidden in a taco joint. Just a few of the many sweet and savory delights you’ll find in Fenton.
The culinary story is just one part, if a big one, of what makes Fenton a destination to consider, about an hour northwest of Detroit, where Genesee, Livingston and Oakland counties all come together. Independently owned shops, public art on nearly every block, restored Victorian homes—even a building designed by a legendary architect: Fenton feels almost intentionally designed for picturesque moments.
Named for the winner of an 1837 card game—the agreed-upon prize at the outset of the contest—Fenton is now one of Michigan’s fastest-growing small cities. (Don’t feel too sorry for the game’s loser, LeRoy, as the main drag, Leroy Street, is named for him.) A statue commemorates the event in front of the Fenton Community and Cultural Center, designed by the celebrated Finn-turned-Michigander Eliel Saarinen.
You can easily spend a leisurely day, or even weekend, here. As an added incentive, on Thursdays and Fridays through October, Leroy Street is closed to auto traffic starting around 4pm for the Fenton Street Experience. Vendors and entertainers line the avenue; kids whiz by on skates, scooters and bikes; and Thursday’s farmers market brings in healthy shades of green.
Whichever day you choose: Bring your appetite.
THE LAUNDRY
The Fenton food renaissance, arguably, began here. In 1997, “there weren’t a whole lot of alternatives for going out in Fenton beyond beer and pizza,” says Jasmyn Lee, the company’s social media marketing manager. Founder Mark Hamel wanted to open an eatery that “sourced the highest-quality ingredients, and where he could showcase some eclectic European beer and a selection of stellar wine. People were skeptical, but from day one there was a line around the block.”
Ever since, The Laundry—housed in a former laundromat—has occupied the corner where Shiawassee Street meets Adelaide. Inside, ambience is appropriately casual, eclectic and unpretentious—qualities that extend to the menu as well.
The spacious outdoor patio cozies up to the restaurant’s organic kitchen garden, which includes its own beehive.
“We have an amazing yield of tomatoes every year, and I think it’s because of the bees,” says Lee.
Hamel and husband Mike Green continue to work in the restaurant whenever they’re needed, and Lee, who’s been with the company for over a decade, occasionally pops behind the bar to mix some drinks. Employees tend to be in it for the long haul: The current executive chef, Devon Ingman, began more than 14 years ago as a line cook.
The Spot: The Laundry, 125 W. Shiawassee at Adelaide, Fenton; 810-629-8852; lunchandbeyond.com
Don’t Miss: “Our artichoke dip is one of the tastiest; it has brie, boursin and gorgonzola,” says Lee. “And at lunch, the #11 Reuben sandwich is made with our own corned beef from Halpern’s, made with our own brine.”
CRUST
Started in 2012 as a spinoff of The Laundry—and stretching for nearly a block—CRUST employs a mix of bakers, some classically trained, some new to the trade.
CRUST’s dedication to the Fenton community emerges in many ways. For one, there’s the building itself, which the owners chose to repurpose and revitalize rather than building a facility from scratch. That maps closely to the bakery’s philosophy: to preserve artisan bread-making traditions, which includes using Old World equipment like two special ovens imported from Italy.
Whatever their magic ingredient, it has succeeded brilliantly, expanding from 5,000 to 13,000 square feet in 2017, with, according to CRUST’s Lauren Gruber, about 100 employees. It also received MLive’s designation as Michigan’s Best Bakery of 2018. CRUST’s cinnamon rolls are also a top seller on Williams Sonoma’s website.
CRUST offers classes that quickly sell out, a restaurant that serves breakfast and lunchtime (brunch on the weekends), a full slate of espresso drinks and cocktails and the Flour Power eClub that offers a nice little monthly discount.
The Spot: CRUST, 104 W. Caroline St., Fenton; 810-629-8882; crustandbeyond.com
Don’t Miss: The monthly special bakes—artisan bread, pastry and treat— and Gruber recommends “the Chocolate Chip Sea Salt cookies. They’re a fan favorite here.”
THE CHEESE LADY
The local representative—and newest member—of this Michigan franchise is a shop that somehow strikes a perfect balance between spacious and cozy.
The chain, whose flagship store opened in 2004 in Muskegon, boasts independently run, women-owned locations around the state. In Fenton, that means the mother-daughter team of Jean and Charlotte Ruffini. Unsurprisingly, they’re deeply passionate about their primary offering: a staggering selection of cheeses, pretty much equally split between domestic and global varieties.
The difference you taste?
“Each of our cheeses is sliced directly off the wheel,” says Charlotte Ruffini. “It’s fresher, and a huge distance from the pre-packaged stuff you buy at a supermarket. The cheese is ...” she pauses ever-so-slightly as she searches for the right word, then says with a smile, “happier.”
You can load up for a picnic to take to one of Fenton’s many parks: Bread, meats, jams and all sorts of gastronomic delights are all on hand. Feeling overwhelmed? Try an “adult lunchable,” a pre-made box with crackers, cheese and other tasty treats.
The Spot: The Cheese Lady, 121 First St., Fenton; 810-208-0695; thecheeselady.net/locations/fenton
Don’t Miss: The Ruffinis are ready to introduce you to more exotic cheeses, so don’t be afraid of the so-called stinky cheeses: “You just need to find the right one,” Jean Ruffini says. Her daughter adds, “We’ve literally had people say that a great blue cheese can be life-changing.”
FENTON FIRE HALL
When the city’s DDA put out the call for a new use for its empty antiquated 1929 fire hall, Union Joints answered. They had already transformed a former church (the Clarkston Union) and a Berkley garage (Vinsetta Garage), and went on to combine a former gas station and former firehouse into another eatery (Honcho), among others.
“We like to call our process ‘respectful repurposing.’ It’s about honoring the building and its original purpose and having reverence for the many stories that it contains,” says co-owner Ann Stevenson, the Joints’ lead designer. “We have such a romantic notion, in the purest sense, of the possibility of a building’s revival.”
With the goal of making it “something that would enhance Fenton’s warm and close-knit community,” says Stevenson, they built out two floors and a two-story addition to house logistical necessities, which features lights wired through from old fire hoses and black-and-white portraits of modern era Fenton firefighters. The view from the rooftop seating is tough to beat.
The menu will please Union Joints fans with Fire Hall Chili, a whole slew of salads, “Vittles” and various house-smoked BBQ meats from “The Pit.”
The Spot: Fenton Fire Hall, 201 S. Leroy St., Fenton; 810-936-0442; fentonfirehall.com
Don’t Miss: Stevenson recommends the Shaved Brussels Salad: “I’m partial, it’s my recipe.” She also suggests the Great Southern Trendkill (a hot chicken sandwich), Korean Pork Tacos and, of course, “Union Joints’ most-macked Mac and Cheese.”
PUMPHOUSE CUSTARD
Just outside the Fire Hall, on the bank of the Shiawassee, Union Joints repurposed the original pumphouse to turn out delicious, old-timey frozen custard using that new-timiest of procedures, molecular gastronomy.
Liquid nitrogen at -321o Fahrenheit means no churning, which in turn means no bubbles get into the unfrozen ice cream, which in turn means ice cream and frozen custard that is, frankly, shockingly creamy.
Flavors include classics like Deep Dark Chocolate, Old School Vanilla, and Maple Pecan. Trend spotters can luxuriate in Salted Caramel and Drumstick. Need something completely different? Try a double, with one scoop of Miss Casey’s Honey Cinnamon and the other of Faygo Rock N Rye.
We dare you to top it with rainbow sprinkles.
The Spot: Pumphouse Custard, behind the Fenton Fire Hall at 201 S. Leroy St., Fenton; 810- 936-0442; pumphousecustard.com
Don’t Miss: A shake, float or scoop of the Rock N Rye is very hashtag Michigan and, topped with POP ROCKS or cupcake bites, packs a fun punch.
Fun Fact (and Full Disclosure): Fenton Fire Hall and Pumphouse Custard are part of the Union Joints family, which is co-owned by a family member of edibleWOW Editor Cara Catallo.
THE RELIEF AND RESOURCE COMPANY
Yet another Hamel enterprise—R&R, as it’s locally known— opened in 2016 after co-owner Jon Foley brought the idea of a speakeasy to the table, says The Laundry’s Jasmyn Lee. “He wanted to focus on things like old-school cocktail culture, awesome craft cocktails— and just be creative with wild ideas that are a little bit much for The Laundry, but perfect in a speakeasy.”
Since speakeasies need covers, Hamel opened a casual taco place, El Topo as the front. (It means “the mole” in Spanish.) To get to R&R, look for the Pringles vending machine and hit the “original” button. The door opens, and you’re in a clubby, cozy bar—which, in warm weather, opens onto a patio.
The Spot: The Relief and Resource Company, inside El Topo, 113½ Mill St., Fenton; 810-215-1100; reliefandresource.com
Don’t Miss: Whatever sounds like it might tickle your fancy.
BRING YOUR SHOPPING BAGS—OR MAYBE A CART
Dreaming of unique, independently owned boutiques housed in charming turn-of-the-century buildings? Wake up and head to Fenton. Leroy Street boasts one unique shop after another, including Luna’s, with its daft tiki bar vibe and vintage-looking Hawaiian shirts and dresses, and Yesterday’s Treasures, a restored Victorian housing beautiful antique home goods and jewelry. Turn down Shiawassee—or walk up it after lunch at The Laundry—where you have two chances to pretend you’ve entered a wormhole and emerged in Provence, via The Iron Grate and La Petit Maison. (Don’t miss the Iron Grate’s upstairs galleries. Ooh la la….) In between, you’ll find the Open Book, a delightful shop crammed full of reading material, with handwritten recommendations, a passionate staff and a full slate of written-in-Michigan titles.
ART AND ARCHITECTURE
For architecture buffs, the chance to see Eliel Saarinen’s Fenton Cultural Center is reason enough to make the trek. It provides a wonderful chance to spend time with the master’s work, and fronts the lovely Community Center Rackham Park, through which the Shiawassee River runs.
Cross the street to see a refreshing cascade and a massive millstone from Fenton’s days as a mill town.
Domestic architecture connoisseurs won’t want to miss a saunter down Shiawassee Street to Dibbleville, which features examples of Greek Revival and Gothic Revival, Italianate and Queen Anne, and many other styles from around the turn of the 20th century.
