Edible Neighborhood Come Hungry to Clawson
Big Eats in a Small Town
WHETHER YOU WANT A BURGER, SUSHI OR A STIFF LOCALLY DISTILLED COCKTAIL, CLAWSON’S GOT YOU
DON’T BLINK.
Clawson might seem easy to miss— nestled so snuggly between Royal Oak and Troy that it’s hard to notice where one stops and another begins—but this 2.2-mile enclave offers nonstop flavor.
“Clawson is a little gem in between two communities that are really a little more urban than we are,” says Clawson Downtown Development Authority Director Joan Horton. “We really are still a small town, which is the charm.”
And that small town sure feels worldly, with restaurants specializing in Japanese, Korean, Mexican and Italian cuisines, to name a few. It also blends longtime iconic spots like Noble Fish with brand new ones like Weiss Distillery, which opened earlier this year.
“This kind of growth doesn’t happen overnight. Leon & Lulu kind of started it by repurposing the old roller rink,” says Horton, mentioning the popular furniture and gift store. Horton is also grateful for the recent cache of new businesses that helped Clawson overcome losses of several favorites that closed. The former Da Nang, Black Lotus and Moose Winooski’s now hold Noori, Pumachug and Lucky Duck. “And White Wolf came along, which is just an amazing addition. Things just keep growing.”
The City’s enthusiasm and support is part of what attracted White Wolf, says Chef Doran Brooks, who moved to Michigan to pilot White Wolf.
“Clawson made sense, with the City expressing interest in making the city a more livable, walkable downtown area,” says Brooks. “It’s going through a really exciting renaissance.”
From the mixed-use development growing around the Ace Hardware to Zeoli’s Modern Italian Restaurant, Clawson offers more things to do than we can possibly list here, including learning about the city’s history at the Clawson Historical Museum or picking up natural fibers at The Yarn Stop on Main Street—or a few tricks at Wunderground Magic Shop across the street.
“We have so many choices and Clawson really is becoming a dining hub,” says Horton. “When you think, ‘Where do we go to eat?’ you don’t need to know where you’re going. Just go to Clawson.”
SOZAI
In an unassuming storefront west of Main Street, Hajime Sato, chef and owner of Sozai, doesn’t mince words: “Do not come here and ask for California rolls. If that’s what you want, don’t come. Please don’t ask for it. I’m not going to make it.”
While his delivery might initially startle, don’t be offended. Sato is all about arriving with an open mind, rather than preconceived notions about sushi. “Don’t you think that’s life? You’re still learning. You can get California roll at Meijer.”
This isn’t the place for typical sushi bar items like yellowtail, eel or farm-raised salmon or shrimp, in part because Sozai continues a sustainable seafood commitment Sato first made in 2009, when he ran Seattle’s award-winning restaurant Mashiko. He moved to Michigan in 2019 to be closer to family.
Sato recommends diners explore Sozai’s omakase. More an experience than a meal, omakase is a reservations-required multi-hour, multi-course, chef ‘s-choice meal, available solely at the sushi bar, where Soto can cater to what he thinks a guest will most enjoy. Prices start at $70 (vegan) and $80 (Hama) and go all the way to Kappo, an exclusive culinary journey that requires a two-week-in-advance reservation and deposit, with a cost that depends upon market prices.
“It’s not just one dish or two dishes,” says Sato, stressing the meal might be different for each diner. “It changes every single moment. … It depends on how I talk to the people and it changes to the liking of them. So that is the specialty.”
If that feels out of reach, don’t worry: Sozai—the Japanese word for material— also offers more familiar offerings, including sushi and sashimi assortments, nigiri, teiban (small plates like poke or ceviche of the day and spicy albacore tataki), makimono and even bento.
The Spot: Sozai, 449 W. 14 Mile Rd.; sozairestaurant.com
Don’t Miss: “Our specialty is not having a favorite dish,” says Sato. But omakase, on any level, seems destined to be a night to remember.
THREE CATS AT LEON & LULU’S
Mary Liz Curtin and husband Stephen Scannell had already restored and repurposed the 1941 former Ambassador Roller Rink into furniture and gift boutique Leon & Lulu’s when they purchased Clawson’s former theater next door. Curtin knew just how to round out the former entertainment district.
“At the time there was no place to send two ladies for lunch,” says Curtin, referring to her Leon & Lulu customers. “We’re a destination store. We bring people from a two-hour radius.”
In 2019, the former theater became Three Cats, a full-scale American-style restaurant, with Chef Matt Prentice at the helm. The popular chef died last April after a brief illness.
“We could not have put together this business without him,” says Curtin, who’s proud that Three Cats continues to pay homage to Prentice. “We’re always trying to find evolution that still plays true to his spirit. Matt was such an enormous force.”
That means Curtin and Chef Alex Matoin have finessed a menu dotted with mushrooms, a nod to Prentice’s former restaurant Morels.
“We love foragers, but Wolgast has been a wonderful resource for us,” says Curtin about Berkley’s Wolgast Mushrooms.
Other favorites are Hen Pecked—take your choice of chicken or egg salad, mixed greens, cucumber, tomato, goat cheese. Says Curtin: “It’s the perfect ladies’ lunch, and you get to ask: What came first, the chicken salad or the egg salad?”
Three Cats also offers inventive quirky cocktails—plus cocktail accoutrements like artisanal infusers and a Two James satellite—and is one of the anchors of Clawson’s new social district.
The Spot: Three Cats at Leon & Lulu’s, 116 W. 14 Mile Rd.; threecatscafe.com
Don’t Miss: “It’s a Matt Prentice restaurant, so Mushroom Bisque,” says Curtin, frankly. For weekend brunch, consider their new avocado toast flatbread with sun-dried tomato, whipped feta cheese, avocado and a fried egg on top. For lunch or dinner, consider Matt’s Bistro Burger, a 2012 Morels recipe Three Cats re-created.
WHITE WOLF JAPANESE PATISSERIE
Prepare to need a minute to gather your thoughts upon approaching the pastry case at White Wolf Japanese Patisserie. Everything just seems so special—and, like Clawson, somewhat worldly: buttery French Mille Crepe Cake, English Earl Grey Creme Brûlée, Italian-tinged Tiramisu and even Swiss Rolls in not just cocoa chiffon, but also in a Japanese Matcha Azuki Chiffon cake.
But it’s those crepe cakes that are, by far, the most popular items, says Doran Brooks, White Wolf ‘s classically trained executive chef and president: “They are a meticulous labor of love” consisting of 26 alternating layers of crepe and mouse.
“Working at Morimoto really opened my eyes to the beauty of French and Japanese cuisine and to the history that a lot of Japanese baking is founded in French baking,” says Brooks, referring to New York City’s celebrated Morimoto restaurant. He also trained in Japan.
Brooks opened White Wolf in 2019, just two doors from Noble Fish. Both are part of the Noble Village Group, which will soon connect the two businesses when the former Flipside Records space between them becomes Noble Village food hall. Brooks hopes to have it completed before the holidays. Noble Village Group also owns One World Market in Novi, which will undergo a similar expansion on a much larger scale later this year or early next.
Don’t fret: “Noble Fish and White Wolf are not going away,” reassures Brooks.
The Spot: White Wolf Japanese Patisserie, 31 E. 14 Mile Rd.; whitewolfbakery.com
Don’t Miss: Try a crepe cake, either in matcha, strawberry or the seasonal special. Brooks also gives a nod to the chiffon cake, which he calls light, simple and very good. “I think it’s a great representation of a traditional Japanese dessert.” For a birthday cake, a favorite is the strawberry shortcake, a popular dessert in Japan. “It’s a beautiful mix of local fruit and local dairy, with the Japanese flour,” says Brooks.
NOBLE FISH
Noble Fish’s origin story stretches back almost 40 years, to when Rainbow Fish House opened its doors, but it was after Takayuki “Guchi-san” Sakaguchi came on as manager in 1998 that the tiny store and sushi bar now known as Noble Fish helped make Clawson a Southeast Michigan dining destination.
After closing to expand and remodel extensively in 2019, Noble reopened in early 2020 shortly before the pandemic. Manager Samuel Lindsay says that guests have more grab-and-go options now, with already-prepared sushi in the grocery side that is the exact same quality. Plus, with their larger grocery space, Noble has all the ingredients for visitors to make their own sushi at home, including sashimi-grade fish and octopus, rice and their top seller, Kewpie mayo, to name only a few items.
Lindsay also stresses Noble’s commitment to supply chain integrity: “We’re able to trace where that product was caught. We know where it came from. If it was farmed fish, what kind of food it was given.”
Though Noble is now quadruple the size, the restaurant is still booming. The website recommends being prepared to wait an extra hour and if you come after 5:30 p.m. call ahead to make sure they’re still taking orders.
The Spot: Noble Fish, 45 E. 14 Mile Rd.; noblefish.com
Don’t Miss: Noble’s top seller is the Michigan roll (tuna, cucumber, avocado with spicy mayo). A close second is the spicy salmon special roll.
SABBATH COFFEE ROASTERS
After meeting over coffee, it’s no wonder that Trevor and Miranda Graham opted to start a coffee roasting company.
The pair learned the ropes at home, pop-ups and farmers markets before opening the doors to what they call their flagship location in 2020. There visitors can grab a macchiato or any number of coffee drinks, plus pastries by Cannelle (Tu—Su) and treats from Dooped Donuts (every day).
They also sell their roasted beans by the bag: Ethiopian, Colombian and their own Ritual blend, among others. And if you’re strolling Clawson with a stroller or walking your dog, note that they have a walk-up window off to the side.
The Spot: Sabbath Coffee Roasters, 24 E. 14 Mile Rd.; sabbathcoffeeroasters.com
Don’t Miss: If you’re looking for a hot drink, the honey cinnamon oat milk latte is among their top sellers. If you aim to cool off, give their frozen latte a try!
WEISS DISTILLING CO.
Built from the ground up over the past four years, Weiss Distilling Co. opened January 15, and includes retail, ice cutting workshop, speakeasy and distilling spaces, says Dennis Weiss, founder.
Weiss says he chose Clawson because though it had food options, he thought it lacked high-end and specialty cocktails. Plus it was a great place to showcase house-made spirits, syrups, liquors and more in-house.
“One of my favorite things to hear from guests is ‘Wow, this is like a spot you’d see in a large downtown,’” says Weiss. “I am proud to hear that.”
WDC’s spirits include Vanishing Vodka—”so good it disappears”— Straitjacket Gin made from 12 botanicals, Royal Rum that’s “fit for a king” and White Lightning Whiskey, modeled after traditional Appalachian moonshine that promises to give a “jolt to the senses.” And be on the lookout for the soon-tobe- released Jezibaba Absinthe, plus a private party space upstairs from WDC.
WDC makes most of their spirits, however, says Weiss, making some, like rum, isn’ t “environmentally doable” locally, so WDC worked with Caribbean distilleries to create a blend of three “to give the perfect nose and taste” that works well neat, or in a favorite cocktail.
And WDC is more than ready for the upcoming social district: “We have our own custom cups that will fit perfectly portioned and handmade cocktails!”
The Spot: Weiss Distilling Co., 34 E. 14 Mile Rd.; thewdc.com
Don’t Miss: WDC has top sellers like the Bull and Rose, featuring gin, rose Amaro and orange liqueur; and Cardi Parti, with vodka, pineapple and ginger, but Weiss recommends “talking to your bartender and seeing if a dealer’s choice is up your alley. Basically we have custom tarot cards that will let the spirits pick your spirit!”
THE SOCIAL DISTRICT
It’s a good time to stroll Clawson. On May 21, Clawson’s set to launch its new social district, anchored on one end of 14 Mile Road by Three Cats Cafe and Zeoli’s Modern Italian restaurant on the other, and down to Woodpile Barbecue on South Main Street. Those over age 21 will be able stroll the sidewalks within the designated areas carrying a drink in a specially approved disposable vessel purchased from participating restaurants.
