STEP 1: Find a medium-large pot and tie a long piece of butcher’s twine from one handle to the other, being sure to pull tension in the string. Fill the pot with water and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, bring a separate large pot of grapeseed oil to 350°F.

STEP 2: Melt the butter, sugar and salt over high heat in a deep, wide pot. Add the water and bring to a simmer.

STEP 3: Add both flours, reduce heat by ¼ and stir vigorously and continuously to form a smooth, uniform dough, about a minute or 90 seconds. Take care not to scrape up the crust that forms on the bottom of the pan or reintroduce dry bits back into your smooth paste.

STEP 4: Transfer to a mixing bowl with paddle attachment. Slowly beat in the eggs, one at a time, fully incorporating each egg before you add the next, ending with a sticky, smooth, tender and matte paste. Transfer batter to a piping bag.

STEP 5: Using the taut string over the boiling water, pipe nuggets of choux into the water 15–20 at a time in 1-inch lengths, moving the bag back and forth to yield the nuggets. When the nuggets have floated to the top, continue cooking until gnocchi are fully cooked to the center, about 1–3 minutes longer. Lift gnocchi with a fine-mesh strainer or a metal spider and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with a little bit of olive oil and toss to coat. Repeat with remaining dough.

STEP 6: When ready to serve, fry in oil until deeply caramelized and puffy. Top braise with choux-tons!