The Fresh World of Chartreuse in Detroit
When a mutual friend introduced Doug Hewitt to Sandy Levine, “we were a match right off the bat,” says Hewitt. He’s in charge of the kitchen at Chartreuse Kitchen and Cocktails on Kirby Street in Detroit. But it was at the partnership’s first restaurant, The Oakland Art Novelty Company, that Hewitt saw maybe the perfect example of Levine’s philosophy of hospitality.
“A woman just couldn’t believe we didn’t have Miller Lite. She was really upset, said it was so pretentious. Most places, the staff would be rolling their eyes. Sandy ran down to the party store, got a six-pack of Miller Lite, and won her over. That’s what he does. He took the opportunity to win that moment, and he won a guest that maybe we would have lost.”
With his first job at age 11, washing dishes on Saturdays in his grandparents’ restaurant, Levine effectively grew up in the industry. “A lot of restaurant work is humble,” says Levine. “Nobody is above any duty that anyone does in the industry. The dishwasher is the backbone of the restaurant. The busboy is vital to the server.”
Having worked in all kinds of restaurants, from fast food to fine dining, Levine’s first place was The Oakland, and Hewitt was right there with him. Levine patterned it after a bar in Chicago that he and his wife, Heather—“she’s the one I listen to for every important decision I make”—used to drive the few hundred miles just to visit.
Levine knew he was taking a risk with The Oakland’s secretive speakeasy format. “I was nervous in terms of how a speakeasy would be received. I didn’t doubt the concept itself because I’d experienced it. But was this market ready for it? We didn’t want to disappoint people who came in, we wanted to make it very clear that this was not a regular bar. After a couple years, we didn’t actively try to be hidden. Now it is a regular bar, open to the sidewalk.”
Still thriving, The Oakland provided valuable lessons for both partners that paved the way to opening their second place. “Doug and I knew we’d have to work with a super-small kitchen at Chartreuse,” says Levine. “But Doug is brilliant at making a menu that’s quickly executable.”
Hewitt, who graduated from Schoolcraft College and worked at both Milford’s Five Lakes Grill and Terry B’s in Dexter, found that “the tiny space taught me way more about just being a better chef. I’ve simplified a lot of things. I was overthinking dishes, maybe one component too many. Working small has taught me boundaries. Most importantly, it helped me see how to put my people in a better place to succeed.”
Mastering tiny-kitchen cooking has proven essential to the success of Chartreuse, where the work space is about 350 square feet. What emerges from that small space is a hyperlocal, superbly fresh menu that changes with the seasons. Dishes can be as simple as roasted carrots complemented by harissa, pistachios and yogurt, and as playful as the smoked whitefish cigar, featuring avocado, raspberries and jalapeno. You can easily make a full dinner of small plates, or order an entree. Past seasonal offerings have included duck confit with pickled blackberries, a short rib with cornbread and tomatillo, and sea bream with local beans, sweet corn and heirloom tomatoes. Servers are helpful, friendly and never overbearing. Try to save room for Pastry Chef Ben Robison’s intriguing desserts, which might include Miso Caramel Cake and Madagascar Vanilla Pudding with a basil syrup.
The seasonal focus honors the restaurant’s namesake: Chartreuse liqueur, which features a hue so distinctive—a brilliant yellowish green—it inspired its own color name. “Chartreuse is made, and has been for hundreds of years, by these monks who live in the French Alps,” says Levine. “They make it from 130 different ingredients, all plants and flowers that grow right there on the mountain. I knew before I even met Doug that whole approach would be perfect.”
Naturally, guests are welcome to try the liqueur at the restaurant, neat or in one of the inventive craft cocktails, where Levine and Hewitt give their bartenders full creative range.
As you sit in the restaurant sip your drink, you are immersed in the color. Chartreuse Kitchen is a new green room in every possible way. An eco-wall, designed by Chris Best of Ferndale, exudes tranquility even as the eatery bustles. And the space’s compact size feels cozy and intimate, no doubt one reason it’s repeatedly designated one of Detroit’s most romantic restaurants, as well as the Freep’s pick for 2016 Restaurant of the Year.
With both restaurants thriving, Levine and Hewitt have decided to expand to a third venue. “We purchased a building in the Milwaukee Junction,” says Levine, referring to the area of Detroit east of New Center.
“We’re planning two new concepts. One, Dragonfly, will be a wine, sherry and low-alcohol cocktail bar. On the other side, we’re opening Freya, which will feature tasting menus. We’re aiming to make it more slowed down and intentional, a lot more attention to detail. ‘Fine Dining for the 99%’ is the theme that keeps coming up.”
He and Hewitt both feel it’s a way to share the love. “I love to eat out,” says Hewitt. “I get so much inspiration eating food made by the people I admire. But it’s part of my job to do tasting menus at places a lot of people can’t get to. Everybody deserves to have that experience.”
They both readily admit the inherent challenges. “We’ve got to make it over the top and special and feature amazing ingredients, and meanwhile pay staff appropriately,” says Levine.
But there’s zero doubt the two are in it for the long term. “After a couple of years, Doug came to me and said, ‘I don’t ever want to look for another job.’ I said, “That’s great, because I don’t ever want to look for another chef.’ We have a mutual respect. We stay out of each other’s way, let each other run the parts we’re good at, and ultimately we’re both really dedicated to making the guests happy.”
With two thriving restaurants, Levine and Hewitt are clearly on to something.
CHARTREUSE KITCHEN & COCKTAIL
15 E. Kirby, Ste. D, Detroit
313-818-3915
ChartreuseKC.com
