Notable Edibles - Detroit's Tastemakers

One is for chefs, the other enjoys what the chefs prepare, but both groups have the same mission: celebrating the rich food and drink scene in Southeast Michigan.

METRO DETROIT’S fine-dining scene has always featured top-tier establishments garnering national acclaim: Think Golden Mushroom or Tribute. But in recent years, the Motor City has seen a culinary renaissance that has won the notice of national and international media, as well as the James Beard Awards, aka the Oscars of the food world. And through it all, two organizations have both contributed to and enjoyed the pleasures of the scene as well.

The Michigan Chefs de Cuisine Association (MCCA)—the local chapter of the American Culinary Federation (ACF)—and the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs– Detroit Chapter have been fixtures of the dining landscape for a long time. Both champion the food and drink scene in the city and suburbs. Both strive to deliver excellence for their members.

The difference? One organization prepares what the other group’s members enjoy.

Here’s a look at two local organizations that nourish and celebrate Southeast Michigan’s food and drink scene.

‘The organization for chefs’

Michigan Chefs de Cuisine Association has been an active part of Detroit’s culinary community since 1970, when famed Chef Milos Cihelka, of Golden Mushroom and Detroit Athletic Club fame, took on the challenge of opening a Detroit chapter of the national organization.

The primary purpose of the organization is to further culinary education, personal and professional growth and the ever-important networking.

“Networking is the cornerstone of what we do,” says James Kokenyesdi, current president of Michigan Chefs de Cuisine, which has 381 members in the Detroit Chapter, of which 260 are professional memberships. “We’re the organization for chefs from Ann Arbor to Port Huron. Our chapter boasts more certified master chefs than any other chapter.”

“There was a time when every single job I got was a network connection from being a member,” Kokenyesdi recalls. “The certification you earn gives you credibility in the kitchen.” Another benefit is the continuing-education-style activities to help keep chefs learning and trying different approaches.

The organization also works extensively with culinary students to help them gain the skills necessary for a profession in the culinary industry, along with mentoring and extended education options.

“We are very career-path-orientated,” Kokenyesdi says. “We need to show students how big kitchens operate.”

Most high school home economics classes can’t offer the true flavor of what happens in a commercial or fine-dining kitchen, he says. “Those high school kitchens are set up like an in-home kitchen as opposed to commercial equipment. You can’t get a good idea of the industry with something like that, even though it is better than nothing.”

The MCCA works closely in developing curriculums for various culinary schools to do exactly that, he says. “We want to elevate cooking from a job to a career.”

“We are lucky to have such great accredited culinary colleges in our chapter, including the Culinary Institute(s) of Michigan at Baker College, and Schoolcraft College.

“We’re training future cooks,” he notes. This new generation of chefs, shaped by today’s food trends, are bringing that mind-set to their jobs, even to roles that wouldn’t be considered dining destinations. For example, many of those cooks are going into positions at assisted living facilities, where they put a more contemporary spin on the menus.

No matter if they are students or seasoned professionals, Kokenyesdi says, “Chefs should never stop learning. They should always want to know what is new and coming up. Belonging to a peer organization like MCCA allows members to stay current and up to date.”

The French connection

Staying up to date in the gastronomical world is the mission of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. The centuries-old organization brings together chefs and enthusiasts.

Imported from France, the global organization established its presence in the United States in the mid-20th century, and Detroit quickly became one of the key cities involved in its expansion, according to Dan Glisky, president of the Detroit chapter.

“The city’s rich cultural heritage and its reputation for high-quality dining made it a natural fit for the organization,” Glisky says.

“It was founded with the mission to celebrate the culinary arts, fine wines and the camaraderie of shared meals,” Glisky says. “It’s about fostering a community that appreciates the art of cooking, the joy of shared meals and the importance of tradition in culinary excellence.”

Over the ensuing decades, the Detroit chapter, which currently has 28 members, has hosted many events, normally 8–10 per year, which have become highlights in the local culinary calendar, he says.

Typically featuring multi-course dinners prepared by top chefs, the evening isn’t complete without wines selected by experienced sommeliers. Members of the organization have enjoyed meals prepared by historic and influential chefs including Milos Cihelka, Keith Famie and Brian Polcyn, and these events have been held at esteemed restaurants like the Golden Mushroom, the London Chop House and Machus Red Fox.

More recent dining experiences over the past year included venues and chefs of the Highlands, the Country Club of Detroit, La Supreme, the Detroit Club, La Strada and Sylvan Table, says Glisky.

For culinary professionals, being a member is a valuable resource for career growth and staying informed about industry with access to a network of peers and potential mentors, as well as an opportunity to participate in or attend culinary competitions.

Networking with fellow food enthusiasts, chefs, restaurateurs, sommeliers and other professionals in the industry is also a big benefit of membership, says Glisky.

The organization also engages in philanthropic activities, including support for culinary education and scholarships at culinary schools. Currently, the Detroit chapter is working with Schoolcraft College, and will be hosting a Young Chef culinary competition during the first quarter of 2025.

The chapter is also a financial sponsor of the PBS documentary “Detroit, City of Chefs,” which will begin airing in the fall, he says.

The combination of exclusive events, networking, professional development and global connections makes it a worthwhile investment for both amateurs and professionals. Annual membership fees range from $350 to $500 or more.

‘An exciting place for food enthusiasts’

According to both organizations, the dining scene in Detroit is talented and only getting better.

Kokenyesdi is seeing more variety in meal preparations with a balance of flavors. He is also noticing a continued trend toward offering more vegetarian meals with controlled portions.

From Glisky’s perspective, a wave of new restaurant openings and a growing interest in diverse culinary experiences are leading the fine-dining experience in Detroit.

“Several high-end restaurants have opened in 2024, including unique concepts like Puma, with its Argentine influence, and Sexy Steak, offering a modern take on steakhouse dining,” he says. “There is also a trend toward more inclusive and creative concepts, such as the introduction of Liberian cuisine at Little Liberia.

“These developments reflect a broader trend of innovation and cultural fusion, making Metro Detroit an exciting place for food enthusiasts,” Glisky says.

For those interested in joining the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Detroit Chapter, visit www.detroit.chaineus.org, or contact Dan Glisky at Dan@woodberrywine.com.

For details about Michigan Chefs de Cuisine Association (MCCA) / American Culinary Federation (ACF), visit www.mccachef.org.

From a humble Coney Island to the Top of the Pontch, writer Gretchen Van-Monette has yet to have a meal in the Motor City she hasn’t enjoyed.