An Allium by Any Other Name

WHILE THE WORD allium likely calls to mind a densely packed blossom, often in lush purples, to foodies the word goes well beyond ornamental flowers, instead conjuring up culinary herbs and vegetables including chives, garlic, leeks, onions, scallions and shallots.

These alliums are a part of the Amaryllidaceae family (and the Allium genus) with hundreds of distinct species. The common bulbous shape is unmistakable, with grass-like shoots stemming from a bulb with bushy roots. Alliums have sulfur-containing compounds, which bestow their signature oniony, garlicky flavor.

Known for centuries for their curative nature, alliums enjoy a rich history of use in folk remedies. Modern medicine seems to agree. With specific properties ranging from antimicrobial and antiviral to anticarcinogenic, sulfur-containing alliums can serve an important role in today’s diet, according to Stacey Books, a registered dietitian with 7.7 Nutrition, which has offices throughout Southeast Michigan.

“Garlic and onion are often considered to offer the most nutritional benefits,” according to Books. “These alliums in particular offer antioxidants, aid in overall heart health (lower cholesterol and blood pressure) and reduce oxidative stress which prevents damage at the cellular level.”

Garlic is often lauded for its immunity-boosting and antibacterial properties, helping ward off the likes of E. coli, candida, parasites and unwanted viruses. For this reason, you will often find garlic in over-the-counter immunity and gut health supplements.

Onions, a natural antihistamine, also contain flavonoids that aid in the production of glutathione, known for its detoxing and anti-inflammatory capabilities. They are also a good source of vitamin C, which contributes to a strong immune system.

Although the adage may call for an apple a day, Books shares that two cloves of garlic will do the trick too. Daily onion intake is also suggested, preferably raw. “Heat denigrates the nutritional value, so it’s best to consume raw when possible. If cooking, use the lowest heat possible. As with potatoes and apples, the densest nutritional value can be found in the outermost layers of onions,” Books elaborates.

Thanks to Michigan’s cool climate, these healthful alliums can grow well here. Most widely grown are onions and garlic. Onions by far are the most pervasive, with some 2,500 acres of onions cultivated last year alone according to Ben Werling of Michigan State University Extension. Along with New York and Wisconsin, Michigan is known for its pungent yellow onions. Planted from seed in early spring and harvested in late summer or early fall, these cooking onions can be stored for months. The pungent nature of such a variety is nurtured by Michigan’s rich, organic muck soils. (Conversely, sweet Vidalia onions are grown in low-sulfur soils, which helps ensure sweetness.)

“The muck soil in Michigan is black gold and is very high in organic matter, which holds water and nutrients for this hungry and thirsty crop,” says Werling, adding that such fertile ground is the result of drained wetlands and swamps in the early 20^th century by immigrants from northern Europe.

Lake Divide Farm in Jackson County is one of Michigan’s onion growers. Farmer Helen Chandler even identifies onion as her “spirit vegetable,” which provides a glimpse into the passion and connectedness she feels for her crops. Chandler shares a similar affection for garlic. “It’s simple, delicious and very easy to keep,” says Chandler.

Garlic, planted in the fall, is known for its breeding hardiness. Chandler explains, “You can mulch it heavily and then leave it alone. You don’t have to irrigate, but certainly can.”

Lake Divide Farm grows both softneck and hardneck varieties; the difference essentially refers to the development of its flower stalk.

Hardneck garlic grows with a woody central stalk, around which the bulbs grow (along with flowering stalks known as scapes). Softneck garlic, found in most grocery stores, presents with leaves rather than a central stalk. While the softneck variety lends itself to gorgeous garlic braids and a longer shelf life, hardnecks offer a hidden secret crop: the garlic scape. (See sidebar.)

Lake Divide Farm grows some 12,000 total garlic heads per year, selling fresh and cured garlic at farmers markets across Southeast Michigan (including Royal Oak, Ann Arbor and Detroit’s Eastern Market). The farm’s process for curing soft- and hardneck varieties does not vary: once the plant has finished growing, Chandler typically hangs the garlic or places it on a drying rack with the untrimmed exposed bulb. The root system will regulate the moisture and Mother Nature does the rest. With good airflow (Chandler usually cures in the loft of her barn), garlic will cure in about three to five weeks.

Stockbridge-based Lake Divide Farm sells at Eastern Market, Royal Oak Farmers Market and Ann Arbor’s Kerrytown Market.

Mary Bishop is a Metro-Detroit plant-based-food consultant and lifestyle writer. Find her at theveganmary.co.

A Culinary Guide to Alliums

With wide-ranging health benefits and tastes, it comes as no surprise that alliums have long remained a foundation of culinary customs around the world.

Chives

(Allium schoenoprasum): A culinary herb known for its thin, green hollow stalks. It also produces edible purple flowers known as chive blossoms. Their mild, near-delicate flavor makes chives popular as a raw garnish or tossed in a salad. As the name suggests, garlic chives (also known as Chinese chives) exhibit a subtle garlic flavor with an overall mildness that often gets compared to leeks. Both varieties offer edible blossoms, perfect for a fancy finish on any dish.

Garlic

(Allium sativum): Typically found in cloves or bulbs, garlic can also be purchased in paste, minced or powder. As with onions, varieties of garlic offer a world of culinary options. Green garlic (aka baby garlic), for instance, presents a milder version of its mature self. It packs quite a punch when eaten raw, but mellows out considerably when sautéed. Garlic scapes—young shoots that curl from hardneck bulbs—are also bursting with flavor. While its flavor is not as pronounced as mature garlic, these offshoots can be consumed raw, roasted, grilled or pickled.

Leeks

(Allium porrum): Among the largest in the family, leeks consist of tightly bound leaves with a stalk-like base. Unlike many of its allium relatives, the dark green leaves are too fibrous to eat. Often overlooked because of perceived laborious cleaning, leeks are best served cooked, in particular when seeking smooth and subtle flavors. Their dark green leaves are too fibrous to eat, so it is best to save those for use in stocks. Use the white and light green parts for soups, pastas and quiches. Ramps, all the culinary rage of late, are wild leeks. Foraged for their intense flavor, ramps have long green leaves with small, tender bulbs. Enjoyed them raw, cooked, or even pickled.

Onions

(Allium cepa): With bulbs presenting in concentric layers, the numerous varieties of these hearty alliums can range from sweet to pungent with an array of flavors and culinary uses:

• Spanish onions, a type of yellow onion, are known for their large size and caramel-colored skin. The high sugar content yields a sweeter taste and makes them well-suited for raw consumption. If you sauté, be sure not to overcook and lose or diminish the delicate flavors.

• Sweet onions, commonly known by varieties such as Vidalia and Walla Walla, offer high water and sugar content, lending them nicely to caramelizing, using in jam and relish or consuming raw.

• Red onions are perfectly pleasant when used raw for extra bite or crunch. Roasted and pickled offer even more culinary avenues.

• White onions, typified by a mild sharpness, are most often associated with salsas and slaws. Their versatility can also make them a go-to substitute for other onions.

• Pearl onions, also known as baby onions, offer a mild sweetness making them suitable for everything from skewers to sautés.

• Spring onions, technically an immature form of bulb onions, can be found in yellow, white and red varieties. Easily distinguished from green onions by the observable bulb near their base, spring onions’ taste can vary depending on the variety. In general, these younger bulbs offer a more mellow flavor than their mature counterparts, making them prime for pickling, grilling, sautéing or caramelizing. The green stalk can also be used as a scallion substitute.

Scallions

(Allium fistulosum): Commonly known as green onions, scallions have hallmark white root bottoms that offer a much more pungent taste than their tender tubular green stalks. As with most culinary alliums, the entire plant is edible. These alliums can be enjoyed raw or cooked. This versatility finds scallions in everything from fried rice to fresh salads.

Shallots

(Allium ascalonicum): With bulbs in colors that include purple, white and even rose, shallots have trademark delicate paper-like skin and are sometimes referred to as a “rich man’s onion.” Subtly sweet undertones make shallots a preferred ingredient in vinaigrettes and sauces. When sautéed, shallots can caramelize for a deep, sweet addition to any dish. Crispy fried shallots make for a perfect salad or sandwich topper.

Garlic Scapes: A Secret Harvest

Hardneck garlic offers two harvests. The first occurs in late spring and provides us with the glorious, yet often overlooked, scapes. In order to perpetuate a healthier and hardier garlic bulb, these tender green offshoots are clipped in early spring to provide more essential nutrients and growing power to the bulb (which is typically harvested in the fall). Scapes have a mellow garlic flavor and can be eaten raw or cooked. Use them in pesto, stir-fries or pasta dishes.

The Vidalia Onion

Much like sparkling wine can be dubbed Champagne only if it originated in France’s region of the same name, only onions grown by a controlled group of growers in Georgia can legally be labeled Vidalia. Specifically, a sweet onion can only be named Vidalia if it’s grown in one of 20 counties designated by the Vidalia Onion Act of 1986.