Celebrating the Culture of Food in Southeast Michigan

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Cody Shintoski of Marrow Hospitality breaks down how to create a holiday piece de resistance

Photo by Taylor Higgins

DECIDING WHAT TO have for dinner is a challenge many of us struggle with daily. Add in the stresses of entertaining for the holidays, and deciding what to cook for a celebratory get-together can be overwhelming.

One of the intimidating aspects of planning the holiday feast is the main event, the piece de resistance of the table. If you have never cooked a large cut of meat or you are looking for some tricks to elevate your roasting game, Cody Shintoski, director of retail and production at Marrow Hospitality, said the key is selecting the right cut for what you want to do. And that starts with supporting local farmers.

“People get scared of large-meat cookery and choosing the right cut is the best place to start,” Shintoski says. “The locality of meat, and the importance of supporting local businesses, cannot be stressed enough. At Marrow, we focus on small farms in the region, in Michigan specifically right now. Supporting the local economy allows the growth of the local agricultural businesses.

“Even if you don’t shop at Marrow, find a local farm to purchase your meat from. The consumer and butcher connection has been lost over time and the advantages of speaking to a butcher about what you’re trying to cook will allow the butcher to specialize the cut specific to the dish.”

Choosing the right cut of meat

When selecting a piece of meat to roast, look for a high level of fat-to-lean ratio in the muscle.

“Looking for more intramuscular fat will allow it to moisten the meat as it cooks. This will keep it flavorful and juicy. Even in leaner cuts, look for little fat specks,” Shintoski says.

Tender muscles do well with dry-heat cooking methods such as roasting, grilling and sautéing (pan-frying). The naturally occurring intramuscular fat, or marbling, provides enough moisture during the cooking process to add flavor and moisture and create a tender mouthfeel. When cooking these tender muscles, there is very little need to add liquid.

For the perfect showstopping, memorable centerpiece on a holiday table, the standing rib roast is a great selection, Shintoski says.

“Due to the high fat content, if it does get overcooked, it will still be flavorful. Leaner cuts of meat tend to be more important to cook to the right temperature.”

The rib roast comes from the rib section along the spine of the animal containing the sixth through 12th ribs counting from the head. Usually, the rib roast is cut into two or three pieces to create a 6- to 8-pound roast including the bone. When thinking about the tenderness of a muscle, think about how the animal moves. The center of the animal does not see a lot of muscle activity. This is a good indication that this muscle group will be on the tender side.

“I look at both the outside muscle and the eye to select a great rib eye,” Shintoski says. “The ‘cap’ or spinalis muscle is one of the most prized muscles on the whole animal.”

How to cook

The rib roast is perfect for roasting and naturally strong enough in flavor profile to welcome big flavor additions. When thinking about what flavors to use when cooking a rib roast, first determine if a marinade is wanted or just a dry rub.

When using a marinade (containing a liquid) be sure to allow enough time for the flavor to penetrate the meat but also enough time for the rib to dry outside of the marinade; otherwise the caramelization during the cooking process may not be as heavy.

With larger cuts of meat, it is important to season early and allow the seasoning to penetrate into the muscle. Don’t be scared of salt when preparing meat. Heavy application of salt prior to cooking will reduce the amount of salt needed at the end of cooking and allow for a much tastier result.

The use of dry rubs is always a fun way to add a personal twist to a centerpiece roast. Start with the basics: Salt and black pepper are a strong foundation to build on. Add garlic and onion, along with big-flavored herbs like rosemary and thyme. Have some fun by removing the herbs and adding ground coffee or cocoa—just remember the salt as well.

Once the roast is properly seasoned, placing it on top of aromatics, such as roughly chopped onion, carrots, celery and garlic along with some herbs, will create an added level of flavor to the roast. This comfortable bed of flavor can be used to create a sauce after cooking. With the roast resting in aromatics in a baking dish, cook in a very hot oven (450 degrees) for a short time—about 20–30 minutes depending on size—to develop caramelization and good color.

Once the roast starts to caramelize, turn the temperature down, insert a probe thermometer and cook to your desired temperature (125 degrees for medium rare). Once the internal temperature reaches its mark, be sure to allow the roast to rest prior to slicing and serving.

Shintoski adds, “A meat thermometer is highly recommended. Recipe times and temperatures are not always accurate due to oven temperature accuracy so a probe thermometer is highly recommended. Look at the outside for color and then check the internal temperature.”

Jeremy Abbey, WCMC, CEC, CEPC, CCE, CCA, AAC is a lifelong chef and one of the founding directors of Detroit Institute of Gastronomy and Soil2Service.

Advantages of cutting your own meat at home

With today’s high food prices, one way to save money is to purchase larger cuts of meat from wholesale markets. By purchasing in bulk, you can save a lot of money while stocking the freezer and varying your meal options.

“Anytime you can break down a subprimal to a steak, you can save money,” says Shintoski of the smaller cuts derived from the primal cuts, such as chuck, rib, loin and round. “Learning how to cut steaks from a larger cut is a great way to save money.”

This process is often done in the culinary industry but in today’s information-rich world it can easily be adapted to the home kitchen. Purchasing a subprimal cut of meat and cutting it into different muscle groups for cooking methods—from baking and roasting to grilling—can not only save money but is a fun area to study in the cooking world.

“The art of butchery has been lost and not many butchers even break down primal and subprimal cuts anymore,” says Shintoski. “At Marrow, we break down the primal and subprimal cuts to the retail cuts. This allows for the perfect piece of meat for your recipe.”

Spice rub

FOR EACH POUND OF MEAT:
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon cracked black pepper
½ tablespoon granulated garlic
½ tablespoon granulated onion
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary

Mix together and rub on meat. Refrigerate for 12–24 hours to allow flavor to penetrate.

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